A view of Bergen from Floyien


The View from Fløyen

Thursday, April 26, 2012

Nordmen and Vikings

While in Oslo we visited some of the Bygdøy museums. First was The Kon Tiki Museum. This one features Thor Heyerdahl's amazing exploits.  He was a great explorer. The first boat in his lineup is the RA.


You have probably read about this craft made of reeds that are lashed together. Everything is lashed together including the boards that hold the mast, the cabin, the rudder---- the whole nine yards.


This was home sweet home for the crew, who sailed from West Africa to the Lesser Antilles in the Caribbean.


Next in the line was the more famous Kon Tiki raft which Thor and his crew sailed from Chile to Raroia in the Tuamotu Islands of Polynesia in 1947. They lived on this bolsa log raft for 99 days. We watched the film that the crew shot and looked at the displays from both above and below the water level.


The only shelter from the sun and elements was this little hut made of thatched leaves. Of course everything is lashed together. There are great sites online for reviewing the voyage of the Kon Tiki and both RA and RA II. Thor explored his entire life. He did serious work on Easter Island and other places in the Pacific. Our appetites for exploration were all warmed up when we entered the next building.

The good ship "Fram" (Forward) is housed in its own building along with many articfacts and exhibits from both Fridtjof Nansen, who explored the North Polar region, and Roald Amundsen who was the first person to trek to both North and South Poles.


The Fram was built in the late 1800's. It was designed to be driven into the polar ice cap and not break up as the ice froze around the ship.

This year was Fridjof's year in Norway. Many exhibitions and celebrations about his life have taken place across the country. He was also a great humanitarian and statesman who worked tirelessly for displaced peoples who suffered so much after the First World War.
The museum is set up in the half light of the arctic winter. It feels cold in there even on a warm day. You can climb all over the ship. I love that. Drew Van Winkle and I spent about three hours one time on a WWII Liberty Ship in San Francisco. You have to see everything, you know! This wasn't so big but it was a cool Sail and Steam combination and just oozed the history of these explorers.
The main cabin of the Fram - place to relax between watches in the Arctic.
Below decks. That is an extra crankshaft for the steam engine. It is easy to get a sense of just how much pressure the ship could withstand by looking at the bracing and multiple layers of the hull.

"OK, Here's the plan"
The theory was that you could sail into and get stuck in the pack-ice of the North Pole. As the ice shifted around the pole you could "sail" across or very near to the pole. By taking navigational readings you would know when you were near enough to jump out and go by dog sled to the pole. Now just plant the flag of Norway and go back to the ship. Didn't work out. They were in the ice for THREE YEARS!! The sled teams couldn't make it over the rugged ice to the pole. Then they couldn't find the Fram so they had to make it back to Norway on their own. (You have to read about this)  Since the big melt of the past few decades most of the ice is gone. Now a summer trip to the pole wouldn't be quite the same.

The square rigging all fits neatly in the museum. They project images of the northern lights while you wander around - nice touch.
The ship provided protection from the Arctic cold.

This is Amundsen's group dressed for the Antarctic. He also used the "Fram" for his exploring. I guess it is just in the Norsk blood. Ever since the time of the Vikings they have been sailing across oceans to find out what or who was there.

Our final stop was the Viking ship museum.

These ships were real sailing/rowing ships of the 800 AD era. They were used for burial of important people but the ships were not built for the burial. They were ships of the line, so to speak. This is the Viking version of a pleasure craft. It doesn't have much hull above the oar locks so it wasn't designed for ocean travel. 
You can see the holes for the oars are in the top board. Don't you just love the lines of these ships?

The bow


The archeological team in the late 1800's at the burial mound.

Fifteen oars on each side and 2 or 3 men per oar. Your seat was your sea chest with all your stuff inside.

Just a reminder of how far these oarsmen propelled the viking ships - even, as we know, to North America 500 years before Columbus. They robbed and plundered far and wide.

Here is an ocean-going version of the Viking ship.The holes also had little covers to keep water out when no rowing was going on.

This is a good view of the keel and rudder.

The little hut was found on the ships in the burial mounds. It contained the guest of honor and various servants chosen to die and accompany the queen or whomever, some freshly slaughtered cattle, goats, swine etc., as well as other stuff for the journey to Valhalla or wherever they were bound. Other finery was on board as well.

These carved handles are accented with silver nails.


The wooden cart survived 1000 years underground pretty well.


Very fine carving on the cart.


Take one final look at the majestic lines of the ship as we leave the museum.

Tuesday, April 24, 2012

All Norway Conference


Mission Conference was held all day Friday, the 20th, in Romerike - next to the city of Lillestrøm, where Kerry served for eight months back in 1967-68. Here are all of the missionaries who currently serve in Norway posing with President and Sister Johansen and Jose` Texeira of the Europe area presidency.


After a day's worth of meetings we took an hour or so before dinner for games. Kerry played activities director and did some pep rally stuff - clapping doo-dahs and team games.



Body spelling your team name.


Trivia contests for speed and accuracy


Part of the cookie brigade. We took 8 dozen cookies as part of our carry-on luggage that morning. The group of young men and women ate impressive numbers of cookies not to mention lunch and dinner.


Saturday evening was the first session of the all-Norway LDS Conference. Members from as far north as Alta and all the way south and west gathered to hear the big news.What we did on Saturday morning is the subject of a separate posting.



The Saturday evening meeting burst the seems of the Romerike meeting house. It is the largest chapel that the church has in Norway. Great speakers got us all pumped up about what was to happen on Sunday morning - the formation of a second stake in Norway. This is a big deal if you are LDS. Being in a stake (an independent regional grouping of wards) is a sign of growth and strength in all of the church units within that area.




On Sunday morning we dodged a few raindrops on our way across Young's Torget in downtown Oslo. We met in "Folkets Hus" in the labor union building on the other side of the cobblestones.


 Our seats were about halfway back. By the time the meeting started there was standing room only. We estimated the attendance at around 2000.


Part of the meeting was in Norwegian and part in English with translators. When the dust settled we were a part of the new Drammen Norway Stake. It consists of some wards in the east such as Drammen, Skien, and Porsgrunn plus new wards created in the west and south - Bergen, Stavanger, Kristiansund. Also a number of branches such as Haugesund and Arendal round out the new stake.  Oslo Stake picked up the Trondheim branch, which is soon to be a ward.


But the meetings were not over. We still had an "Institute Faculty inservice" to attend just across town a little way. As we started walking I realized that I knew that "El Dorado" theater. It was the Kino (movie theater) where we used to go in the 60's - when it was not against mission rules for missionaries to go to the movies. I swear I saw Cool Hand Luke there.



After a couple hours of inservice we set off on foot for the National Theatre. There are several train lines that run under the city including the express line to the airport. Our stop is a hundred feet or so under the theatre.



We were traveling with our friends, the Biesingers, who are the YSA Center couple in Trondheim. Here we are just down from the King's Palace at the head of Carl Johans Gate. I will post our trip to Bygdøy and the Viking ships in a couple of days.

Sunday, April 8, 2012

Påske


Påske - pronounced POH - ska - is Norwegian for Easter. It is the occasion for spring break. Schools have the whole week off but everybody takes spring break in some way because literally all of the country shuts down for five days. I mean all of the stores, government offices, postal delivery and service businesses except gasoline stations are closed on Kjær Torsday (Maundy Thursday), Lang Fredag (Good Friday), Påske Aften (Easter Eve), OK, Technically some retail and food stores open for a short but very crowded few hours on Saturday but they are all closed by 3 or 4 pm. Påske (Easter Sunday) and Annen Påske Dag (Second Day of Easter or Easter Monday) People begin leaving home for the traditional ski vacation at the family cabin or a trip to the USA or the south of Spain, France or Italy. This year there were cheap trips to beach resorts in Egypt or other African destinations too. On Monday, April 2, there was virtually no rush hour traffic. By the time we drove to visit someone on Thursday the streets were empty.
We decided to take a little drive on roads that looked interesting but were unexplored by us. We ended up in a little place called Fana, which is home to a church built in 1154 - just about 154 years after Saint Olav converted the Vikings to Christianity.


The church wasn't open but it is still an operating local "State Church." Norway is officially a Christian country so it sponsors one religion as the state's church - The Lutheran Church. The national income tax includes a 2 1/2 % tax that goes directly to the church for salaries, maintenance etc. You can have your money set aside for another church by officially withdrawing from the state church and joining another church. However, the other church must apply for the money. You probably already know that the Mormons do not apply for the money. It is not the way our tithing system works.


We had a good look at the wonderful old building and the surrounding grounds. The cemetaries are all located next to the church buildings here. It appears that besides ski and sun trips the locals also take this time to spruce up grave sites and decorate graves with fresh cut flowers.

We read grave markers but not for long. We had other roads to drive.


When you meet a Norwegian whom you have seen a few days before you greet him/her by saying: "Takk for sist." which means "Thanks for the last time." If you have just eaten a good meal you thank your host by saying: "Takk for maten" or "Thanks for the food." You may also say "Takk for idag" (today) or "Takk for ikveld" (this evening) but don't make the typical American mistake of saying "Takk for Alt" - "Thanks for everything" The only time you use that is on your tombstone to show one last time your gratitude for life itself.

So, takk for tiden alle sammen!